How to install post

It includes a number of payloads and scripts used by PowerShell for offense security or red team testing. It also allows for customization to allow evasion by malware detection and end-point management agents to execute processes within memory, running stealthily against targets.

This is not a tool per se, but rather a module to be used in conjunction with PowerShell that allows additional functionality in the form of integration with popular security tools. It leverages Nmap, Shodan, and Metasploit, to name a few supported as sub-modules during all phases of the attack chain, but it's specifically aimed at the post-exploit portion of an engagement.

This is another framework built on Microsoft's PowerShell programming language and to be used with modules to aid every step of the penetration testing engagement, but it's largely focused on post-exploitation tasks. A number of cmdlets are included in the collection to perform specific tasks in exploiting vulnerabilities and data exfiltration. This is a privilege escalation tool based on the Hot Potato Windows Privilege Escalation exploit and based on PowerShell used to target systems vulnerable to this type of attack and leveraging PS to execute it.

Leveraging a PowerShell downgrade attack, Unicorn allows an attacker to inject shell code directly into memory, bypassing the PowerShell console altogether.

Whether you want iPhone and Mac tips or the latest enterprise-specific Apple news, we've got you covered. Delivered Tuesdays. Depending on your lever type like with some 1x levers , you may pull the cable taut through the lever here or leave excess to secure within the lever later. Thread the end cap onto the cable and fit it securely on the housing by the seat tube. Trim off the excess cable at the end.

Take the dropper post in hand and fit the cable clamp into place. Set the dropper post into the seat tube, while removing slack from the cable and housing by pulling it out of the cable port at the other end. Secure the post in place at the correct seat height. Position the lever so your thumb can easily activate it. For external routing, first install your new dropper post at your correct seat height; apply a thin layer of friction paste to the area that will sit inside the seat tube.

Install the lever onto the handlebar within reach of where your thumb will activate it. Run the cable housing along the top tube at the appropriate length from the post to the lever, again leaving room off the front for your handlebar to turn freely, and secure it to the top tube with zip ties or velcro straps. Fit the end cap securely onto the housing by the dropper post.

Thread the cable through that end and out the other side. Remove the actuator cover on the dropper post and fit the cable end into the recessed area, then put the cover back on.

Pull the cable so that it sits taut within the actuator with the housing fitted into the end. Thread the other end of the cable through the barrel adjuster and lever, and secure it within the lever. Trim the cable, fit an end cap on and clamp it down into place, and tuck it behind the lever. A typical 4x4 fence post requires a concrete sleeve about 12 inches 30cm across. A large post hole digger or post driver will make this job much easier.

Power tools can be dangerous if the soil is rocky. You may need to use a clamshell digger instead, plus a long digging bar to lever out rocks. The width of the hole should be consistent the whole way down, not cone shaped. Add a few inches of gravel. A base of gravel or crushed stone will greatly improve drainage. Pour 4 to 6 inches 10 to 15cm into the hole and tamp it level.

Brace the post. Position the post in the center of the hole, using a level to guide you to a vertical position. To hold the post in place, drop two stakes into the soil near two adjacent sides of the post. Nail or screw scrap lumber between the stake and the post. Don't pound the nails or screw the screws all the way into the post, so you can easily remove them later. Repeat for each post hole. Dig every post hole and brace each post so you can pour the concrete all at once.

Use a string between corner posts to ensure that all fence posts are in line with each other. Add more gravel. Another layer of tamped gravel will further improve drainage. Mix your concrete. Put on safety glasses and waterproof gloves. Mix for a few minutes to check the final consistency, then slowly add more water until the concrete feels like paste. To save money, make your own concrete mix: 1 part Portland cement, 2 parts sand, and 3 parts coarse gravel, by volume.

These mixes tend to be weaker and more expensive, so speed comes at a high price. Add the water in small increments until the concrete comes off of the shovel easily. Fill the hole with concrete. Shovel concrete into the hole up to soil level.

Work quickly enough to use each batch of concrete before it hardens. Take care not to splash cement onto the post. Set a level on top of the post before the concrete dries to ensure it's straight. Trowel the concrete into a slope shape. Smoothly cap off the top of the cement with a trowel, grading it outwards from the post. This pitch will allow the water to flow off the post, preventing pools of water that promote decay. Allow at least three days for the concrete to cure.

Give the concrete some time to dry and harden before building the fence or putting any weight on the post. Seal the gap between post and concrete. Once the initial curing is complete, seal the gap around the base of the fence post. This gap will widen with natural expansion and frost, allowing water to pool here and cause rot. Seal it with a sealant that bonds to concrete and wood, such as some silicone sealants or exterior acrylic latex caulk.

Did you know you can get expert answers for this article? Unlock expert answers by supporting wikiHow. Mike Garcia Licensed Landscape Contractor. Mike Garcia. Support wikiHow by unlocking this expert answer. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 4. Anthony "TC" Williams. Not Helpful 10 Helpful This will depend on how big your fence panels are. Usually the panels are 6 feet 1. If a fence has been set in concrete and I need to replace it later with new posts, will the concrete be an issue? If you place posts in concrete, when you have to replace them you'll have to remove the concrete.

So just know to be prepared to spend more effort digging up the old concrete and post. Not Helpful 11 Helpful Once they are marked, you will have 10 days to install your mailbox post in a safe area. Check your local regulations for mailboxes. Look online to find any regulations in your area, and make sure you conform to them when marking the placement of your mailbox post. Make sure that you factor in the size of the mailbox when installing your mailbox post.

Remove the old mailbox post. If you have an old mailbox post you want to replace, you'll need to remove it before you can put in a new one. Use a shovel to dig up the ground around the old post and lift it directly up and out of the ground.

If it's too hard to lift, use some scrap pieces of wood to make a lever that will help pry it free. Otherwise, fill it in and dig a new hole in a different location. Mark the location where your post will be installed. It may take a little trial and error, but you should be able to find a location that works perfectly.

Make a small cross on the ground with spray paint to mark the location. Use a post digger to dig a hole around 20 inches 51 cm deep. A post digger is a tool designed for digging small yet deep holes that should be available at your local hardware store.

Use the post digger to dig a hole in the location you have marked, digging until the hole is at least 20 inches 51 cm deep. Check the depth of the hole with a tape measure as you dig it.

Add approximately 4 to 6 inches 10 to 15 cm of gravel to the hole. Gravel, small stones, or something similar will help with providing proper drainage to the bottom of the hole. Pour enough into the bottom of your hole so that it comes up around 4 inches 10 cm , leaving you with a 16 in 41 cm deep hole. You'll need roughly 10 to 30 pounds 4. Check the depth of the hole again once you've added your gravel, to make sure you will still comply with the requirements for mailboxes in your area.

If there's gravel in the hole from an old mailbox post you've removed, you shouldn't need to add anymore gravel as long as it is deep enough and sets your post at the right height. Part 2. Place the post in the hole and check its height. Lift your mailbox post up and drop it into the hole so that it sits against the gravel.

Use a tape measure to check that it is sitting at the right height above the curb, adding or removing gravel to adjust it as necessary. You can make your own mailbox post by cutting a 4 by 4 in 10 by 10 cm piece of wood to size.

It should be around 65 inches cm in length, with the cut end sitting in the hole. Either purchase waterproof wood, or waterproof the wood yourself.

Pour concrete powder into the hole, leaving 4 to 5 inches 10 to 13 cm of space at the top.